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December 1st-10th, 2001December 1st; Yarram to Bairnsdale
After Yarram more rural terrain with fields and forests. I saw a kangaroo and many rabbits munching on tender grass next to the road. I also passed quite a few protest signs for Basslink and a local explained the controversy to me at Woodside. North of here is the Latrobe Valley with rich coal deposits and many power plants. A British firm has proposed Basslink power lines between this region and Tasmania, passing through the forests and then under the Bass Strait. Most of the protest here in Gippsland is because high pylons are proposed through the forest, instead of going underground (I passed signs for underground gas lines). Also some concern about the "exclusion zone" near the cable being off limits to fishing. In Tasmania the concern was fields generated by the monopole cable might corrode other undersea cables.
At 72 km, Sale was a small town (population 13,000) that was bustling on a Saturday morning. I walked past high clock tower and through a pedestrian mall. The local Lions Club was selling sausages. The Lions told me about local motorcycle club having a rally bringing toys for children and also horse jumping competition at the showgrounds.
Winds were a bit mixed the last 28 km to Bairnsdale. As I got closer, several
motels, stores and signs of this being a larger city. Bairnsdale is also start
of the Lakes and Wilderness tourist area. I walked downtown and past tourist
info center. Found a place at Kansas City motel. I wasn't the only person
with an American accent who asks about the name (former owner was Greek with
name something like Kantjas but people called him Kansas). December 2nd; Bairnsdale to Orbost
The first half of the ride was through a vacation area with many accommodations. Looks like the type of place people from Melbourne would go for week of fishing, walking through forests and relaxation. Second half of the ride were small places listed as "timber towns", though I didn't see signs of recent logging. Had a slow start with brekky in Bairnsdale before I left and another stop in Nicholson at 10 km. Two more small settlements of Johnsonville and Swan Reach before I descended into Lakes Entrance at 36 km. As the name suggests, this area has several large freshwater lakes that drain through a narrow opening at Lakes Entrance. A small fishing fleet here and several kms of motels and beach businesses. Had another brekky here.
Just prior to Orbost the road crossed a wide Snowy River (I'll have to look up the ballad, Man from Snowy River). Orbost had nice visitor center and short main street. Town was mostly quiet on a Sunday afternoon. Looking at the map, it looks like I'm running out of Australia! I've been
making good progress towards Sydney, though will take some breaks along the way
so as to arrive not too long before the 21st. December 3rd; Orbost to Cann River
Some more climbing after 10 km and through rest of the day. Also State Forests with occasional trails. At 26 km was Cabbage Tree Creek. The store had shut, so only a B&Band an aboriginal gallery in town. After this point, more clouds and also some thunder. For a brief moment at 35 km it rained in big drops and just as quickly cleared up and became warm and sunny again. A longer hill to 56 km where elevation sign indicated 260m before bit more climbing. A nice descent here and after 70 km it became flat.
December 4th; Rest day in Cann River
Cann River is both a timber town and a beef and dairy town. First
settlers came south from New South Wales. There is a small woodcraft
gallery with a large carved wooden motorcycle (no photos, postcards are $3
each). I stopped at laundry and otherwise looked around town.
Drizzle and rain continued off and on through the day, making it a good time for
a rest day. December 5th; Cann River to Eden
The first of several hills was waiting for me outside town. Also here was a sawmill. Throughout the day, trucks passed full of wood chips...surprisingly close and surprisingly fast. Mostly forests along the way, with different official signs. Close to the Albert State Forest, I passed a sign indicating Mount Drummer and road elevation of 361m. In this area I also got drizzle for the first of two times until Genoa. Genoa was at 47 km. There was a cafe/store and a hotel/motel. Also a general store closed down. It started to rain more heavily, so I used it as an excuse to fix a slow flat back tire caused by a wire. Also here was an old historic bridge that I walked over to the caravan park. The woman at cafe/store wasn't particularly cheerful so decided to continue and hope it didn't rain too much.
At 109 km I dripped into Eden and down the last hill. Found a motel
close to center of town. I discovered my Pocketmail was flaky, so
difficult to type in messages. The motel heater was nice to dry things
out. Eden had small main street, though the Killer Whale Museum was
closed. December 6th; Eden to Bega
Today a shorter distance day with two steep hills and some other hilly areas. The first big hill was climbing out of Eden on Princes Highway. It was followed by a nice descent and rolling terrain. Some roadwork along the way as well. At 20 km was Pambula, described as "historic village", though the main street looking similar to other small towns. From here I took the back road to Merimbula. This was flatter with bike path alongside. I passed an oyster farm and factory but it was too early for their 11 am tour. At 27 km Merimbula was a vacation town where someone might spend a week along the beach. According to local paper, bookings have been up since September 11th as Australians take a drive vacation rather than flying further. From Merimbula I continued along back roads heading towards Tathra. Here was a second large hill (Monk's Hill) leaving town. More quiet forest riding with climbs and descents. At 44 km I stopped briefly at place making garden gnomes.
Bega is known for cheese. I walked out to the Bega Cheese Factory and
historic center. Several old displays of milking machinery, butter churns
and cheese presses. I was surprised to see how many cheese factories were
in the area in 1920. By now they've been consolidated into one or two
large plants. On the way back, I crossed the bridge (6th longest in
NSW...though I doubt many people come here to see it...mostly something to put
in tourist literature). Back and through Bega for the day. December 7th; Bega to Narooma
Over this first hill and along a stream at 10 km. However, just as quickly climbing more hills out of the drainage and across McLoed Hill and then to Quaama at 30 km.
Another hill coming out of Cobargo and more small hills after that.
Light showers as well. Overall made for slower travel to Narooma.
Close to town some young male drivers thought it would be fun to sneak up and December 8th; Narooma to Batemans Bay
More rolling hills today, though the hills were easier than yesterday. A few days ago, the Eden tourist info center told me they've had southbound cyclists arrive and decide to give up on hills and take the bus. A shame, since it seems the most challenging hills are between Narooma and Eden. Traffic has been increasing today. Many overtaking lanes, but unfortunately these become speedways as cars hurry to pass each other.
Batemans Bay has population 13,000 and is big enough for a McDonalds.
It was early, but stopped here for the day. Rain and drizzle made that an
easy choice. Tomorrow the plan is to tackle hills between here and
Canberra. December 9th; Batemans Bay to Braidwood
I crossed an interesting bridge over the Clyde River and then turned inland and up a hill. At 2 km a sign said "Canberra 148", so decided I'd make it in two easy days. The first of several overtaking lanes was here as I slowly climbed. At 10 km a descent back to a bridge over the Clyde River. After this, flat for a while and then some bouncing hills. After 27 km more consistent hills with a long 7 km climb starting at 31 km. The road slowly wound itself up the mountain. Portions were steep enough that I got off and walked for a bit. I like doing this both since it seems to exercise different muscles and makes certain not to overstrain the knees. I passed three safety ramps (runaway truck ramps). Partway up the third was a car towing a trailer. We chuckled at our respective situations... me walking a bike uphill and they caught going too fast downhill. They were pleased to hear there would be two more ramps ahead. I was pleased to be within 2 km of the top. It was a slow climb, but eventually I was at the summit with an elevation of 774 meters.
At Braidwood I met four cyclists from Canberra out for a two week tour along the coast. They had just finished Uni and were now cycling. I was warned of more hills ahead. Braidwood also had half a dozen motorcyclists stopped. At least twenty motorcycles had passed during the morning. Braidwood was settled in the late 1820s with landowners employing
convicts. There was a brief gold rush in 1851. The town has many
historic buildings along a nice main street. Surprisingly many were open
for a Sunday. It was still early, but this looked like a nice place to
visit. December 10th; Braidwood to Canberra
Clear skies but strong headwinds today. Mostly calm when I left Braidwood. A few gentle hills as I headed north. Cows were susceptible to herding again. At 26 km the road turned west after road to Goulburn split off. Several larger hills here, fortunately also sheltered the wind somewhat. As I was slowly climbing against a headwind at 37 km, I came to a motorist fixing a flat and struggling a bit with the jack. I stopped and helped her. It seemed like the wind had subsided when I started again. Not much later, I came to Bungendore at 47 km. After that it was flat but into the wind for 6 km and then over more rolling hills. Noticed my rear tire is getting worn. It is about time to find a bike shop again for worn tires, brakes and gears. In this area were several places advertising land...presumably for country subdivisions for those working in Canberra.
Hooray, happy to reach the city limits. I rode through the south of the
city with a brief tour for the new and old parliament houses. I next
crossed over Lake Burley Griffen and to signs indicating "city centre".
It doesn't seem like much of a center, but found a motel close downtown.
Central Canberra Apartments has nice rooms with kitchenettes for not too
much. I'll be here three or four nights to look around town. |
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