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July 21st-31st, 2001July 21st; Fitzroy Crossing to boab tree beside the road
Grasslands starting out, but mostly short scrubby trees mixed with occasional boab trees. Termite mounds looked like someone had used a giant spoon to glop out large chunks of mud. Long subtle grades, starting with uphill from Fitzroy Crossing, so hard to tell why my speed was slower, until started going down the long downhill. At 43 km was a turnoff to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge, the back route to Derby via a 4WD route and the Gibb River Road. At 87 km was a midmorning snack stop at a rest area. Five caravans stopped for morning tea while I was there. Checked the wheel and all was still fine.
Not much further was a small roadside pullout with a large boab tree. It was hot as the sun had come from behind the clouds, so this looked like a good place to camp in the shade. Pitched my tent and read my book for the afternoon. Checked later, and found my front tire flat again. A thorn puncture (can't complain as this is the first flat in Australia). Decided to ride again to make certain the tire was good. Broke camp,
packed up and rode to a rest area 22 km further on. This one also had a
huge boab tree in the center of the small pullout. Came just at
sunset. Six caravans/campervans parked overnight. July 22nd; Boab tree beside the road to Willare
Today long straight stretches of road going through low scrubby trees. Some gentle grades and light winds from behind. Many road trains with four ore trailers passing. Otherwise, quiet traffic and reasonable roads. At 59 km was a turnoff to Derby (42 km). Wheel looked fine, but decided to bypass the town just to be safe. A pickup truck stopped, "have you seen my little black dog?". Apparently, had jumped off the back. Rougher road and slight hill to climb over and was at the Willare roadhouse.
July 23rd; Willare to Broome
Left at first light again. Landscapes today were similar: scraggly looking trees without leaves, spear grass, three types of termite mounds and mostly dry creeks. Not many boab trees today. There were subtle variations in the amount of open grassland or types of termite mounds, but no overall pattern. Road surfaces mostly smooth with some small bumps. A sequence of bridges to cross the Fitzroy including one lane Willare and Minnie bridges. Surprised these fairly recent bridges would be built for only one lane of traffic. Many noise birds as I crossed the rivers.
At roadhouse were Brendan and Wendy. They also left home on March 1st and are cycling around Australia for 9 1/2 months and raising money for the Leukaemia Foundation. It was fun comparing notes with them of our somewhat similar trips. They were leaving Broome and now heading southbound. Wouldn't be surprised if we leapfrog a bit later on. Roebuck looked like an ok place to stay, but Broome was calling, assisted by a tailwind. The road turned into headwind, last few kms, but still nice to get into Broome. Broome looks like an interesting, isolated town. Nice beaches, small
shops and the largest town around. July 23rd - Reflections and observations about Australia and aboriginesAfter riding through NT and a thousand kms of WA, following are some of my perceptions of the situation in Australia concerning aborigines: First some history. Until about thirty years ago, the history of Australia was written mostly in terms of convicts, settlement and exploration. It was as if the continent was empty and thus ignored the inhabitants who had lived there for 10s of thousands of years before. Those inhabitants had spoken and written language (e.g. rock art), were nomadic and survived in some pretty harsh country. While settling Australia, Europeans were sometimes brutal in their conquest of aborigines, sometimes hunting them like animals. Many died from new diseases. History also includes events such as "the lost generation" where children were taken from aboriginal homes and forcibly assimilated with foster families. I can't help but draw parallels with experiences of Native Americans, where there is both positive history (think of pilgrims & indians sharing Thankgiving) and negative history (think of buffalo and indian hunters on the plains). However, unlike Native Americans, aborigines were not forced onto reservations. Some perished, some displaced and some stayed on their historical lands. In the outback, a sometimes symbiotic relationship existed for a while at the some stations. Aborigines lived around the station, worked during peak times and were provided with some food and $. This stopped in mid-1970s when courts ruled that fair wages must be paid. As a result, many aborigines moved closer to these small outback towns or their own communities. (Perhaps also big cities, but just not as visible there). Places I've seen large concentrations of aborigines include Camooweal, Elliott, Katherine, Kununurra, Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing. Typically, one sees small groups along the streets either walking or sitting in small groups. I see a few working in shops, but even in these towns almost all the workers in shops are white. As history has been rediscovered, the Australian government has put more $$ to support aboriginal needs such as legal help, health clinics, schools, ... I've still observed one aboriginal gentleman picking through trash in Katherine for food. The extra $$ has caused some backlash, e.g. I heard parents in Larimah remark that if their children were aboriginal, there would be a school or clinic in town. There are some in Australia with more extreme views. Australia seems remarkably white (particularly compared with SF Bay area or for a country so close to Asia) and has political history of a "white only" policy in some area, and has political movements (e.g. led by woman named Hansen) to take advantage of this. However, this seems to be the fringe and not the center. A very visible cause for resentment is alcohol abuse amongst aboriginals. Where many aboriginals are out on the streets, it is visible if there is a drinking problem. Towns such as Katherine or Mount Isa have stories and letters about how to control this, such as having specific drinking zones. In Fitzroy Crossing, the motel was right next to a lively bar with many aboriginals around. It seems like a mixed bag here, as I've also seen many aboriginal communities policing themselves with "no alcohol" rules prominently posted. In the last twenty years, Australia's high courts have ruled on land claims. These claims were filed in accordance with historical British common law to show that "traditional owners" did not abandon the land, but instead have a recorded history of settlement and ownership of certain lands. Not all those claims have been reasonable (e.g. claims for 1/3 of NSW including choice parts of Sydney), but many have gone through and are going through the courts, with mineral rights a particularly tough issue. A few areas of claims such as Kakadu have then been leased back to the government for use as parks. Australian politics is still working through a "reconciliation" between white and aboriginal Australians. Included are such issues as whether a "sorry" is due and the nature of this reconciliation. Now some observations and perceptions I've made while cycling in this area:
This is what I've perceived and observed so far. Some similarities, but also differences from what I've seen in the US. July 24th; Rest day in Broome
Broome is best known for the pearl industry. Prior to plastic buttons, this area provided some 75% of the world's mother of pearl. Advent of plastic caused a dramatic decline, though it has been coming back recently with pearl farming in the area. The Broome Historical Museum is one of the better such museums I've seen (no pictures though). A very interesting history of pearl gathering. For example, prior to mechanical pumps the limit to which a diver could go was about 20 meters. After mechanical pumps started about 1910, the number of divers injured or dying from the bends increased dramatically. In 1914, 33 died from the bends, most of them Japanese divers. I visited the Japanese cemetery and saw some of the graves. Deaths from the bends decreased again after the town got a decompression chamber to help revive divers. Broome was hit by Japanese bombers on March 3rd, 1942. About 8000 refuges were evacuating from Indonesia via flying boats. Many of the casualties were Dutch refugees caught in the flying boats in the harbor. Broome was hit three times after that, though not as severely.
In the evening, went to the old Sun City theatre downtown. An outdoor
theatre with canvas deck chairs to watch an old Marilyn Monroe film (Some Like
it Hot). Was fun, particularly to see the moon up on right of the screen. July 25th; Rest day in Broome
First stop, Willare Roadhouse for a brief break. Next stop, "The Prison Boab Tree". A large hollow, boab tree. Legend has it that it held prisoners and aborigines who had been kidnapped. They were locked inside for temporary detention. Also here was Myalls Bore, longest stock tank in the southern hemisphere, water for 500 cattle at a time. From the prison boab, we headed westwards on the Gibb River Road. Road was narrow and paved initially before switching to gravel. An hour and a half along this road, we came to Windjana Gorge. Windjana Gorge was carved out of limestone reef about 60 meters high. A sandy bottom in the gorge with many freshwater crocodiles in the sand. Cooler temperatures in the shade.
Back to the bus and slowly made our way back to Broome with a dinner stop in
Willare. Total distance was 800 km by bus and 14 hours for the trip. July 26th; Rest day in Broome
Riding back upwind on the gravel road, breathing dust as vehicles passed, and then further to Cable Beach. Cable Beach is a beautiful sandy white beach. Camel rides are supposed to be available here, though didn't see any yet.
Rest of day wandered further around town, checked internet, read and
otherwise relaxed. Hoping that wheel will be ready tomorrow. July 27th; Broome to Roebuck Roadhouse
This morning a time for errands. Laundry, sending mail, checking the net and stocking up at Coles for provisions. Typically, on the multi-day rides, I pick up extra fruit, juice, crispbread, peanut butter and cheese. Got a good supply for the road ahead. Broome Cycle and Scoot had said to stop by after 11am to check on the wheel, so I was there promptly. Stopped in and the wheel was ready. This wheel had 20,000+ km of touring in the last three years and now had small cracks coming from at least 14 spoke holes (all on the drive side). I've left behind wheels in some interesting places including the Alaska Highway, Newfoundland and now Broome. I also took apart the wheel and mailed the hub to my parents.
July 28th; Roebuck Roadhouse to roadside rest area
Started with sixteen liters of liquids, ten on the bike and six on my back. Brekky at the roadhouse, interrupted by short darkness as they switched from one generator to another. Slow riding, could definitely notice the extra weight. After 10 km, trees went away and crossed a grassy area for the next 15 km. Cattle grazing and giving the bike a strange look. Just as a head wind started, the road turned and became more tailwind. Trees again, though they kept getting shorter and sparser for the next 50 km. Occasional turnoffs for stations, though none closer than 10 km from the road.
As I approached 100 km, a turnoff to Barn Hill Station which has a campground. Trees getting bigger again. At 117 km, was the Shamrock Fruit Stall. They sell local rock melons, watermelons, tomatoes and also cold drinks. Nice place for a lunch stop. At 120 km was the first rest area, but I kept going so as to split the distance to Sandfire Roadhouse. Tail wind went away and became more variable. Definitely ready for a break on reaching the second rest area. In the evening, shared campfire and company with three sets of caravaners,
two from South Australia and one from Victoria. Perhaps 15 caravans total
parked overnight. July 29th; Roadside rest area to Sandfire Roadhouse
Waited for adequate light and then set off down the road. Saw five kangaroos this morning. Trees gradually became shorter and at 90 km there were none for the next 10 km as the route came along the Great Sandy Desert. Turnoffs to a few stations, but otherwise not much along the way. Reached Sandfire Roadhouse in time for lunch. Half a dozen peacocks around, including several up on the roof. Lots of pass through traffic with many caravans heading for the popular 80 mile beach another 45 km down the road.
Two years ago, there was an American cyclist, named Robert Bogucki, that set
off from around here to travel overland through the Great Sandy Desert towards
Fitzroy Crossing. Forty-three days later, they found him alive in the
middle of the desert. One interesting story I found on the net is here.
There was some fuss later in Australia about who should pay rescue costs for
what essentially was voluntary stupidity. His family later made several
contributions to WA Search and Rescue as well as footing costs for their own
search. What surprises me is that Bogucki would have cycled here via
Fitzroy Crossing, and thus must have been aware of the harshness of the area. July 30th; Sandfire Roadhouse to Pardoo Roadhouse
Got brekky when the roadhouse opened and headed off. Mostly short shrubs today with occasional trees. Some places one could see for considerable distance across the shrubs. Sand dunes closer to the Indian Ocean. I've been seeing more flowers, purples and yellows. At 45 km was a turnoff to Eighty Mile Beach (10 km of unsealed road). Caravaners the night before last relayed a conversation they'd overheard there. A bloke was on the phone bragging to his mates back home, "...and there are lots of topless women out sunbathing at Eighty Mile Beach." He added, "...and lucky for you, most are over 70!" I didn't go verify the topless situation at Eighty Mile Beach, but the caravaners had also shown me many colorful and interesting shells they had collected there.
Many of these roadhouses have budget accommodations named "dongas"
(sp?), for about $AUS 40 per night. Basic room with bed and air
conditioner. With two beds, no room for a bike. Tonight had one bed,
so bike fit inside. Otherwise, a caravan park and tent sites. Pardoo
Roadhouse has seen ~five bikes pass through this week. July 31st; Pardoo Roadhouse to Port Hedland
Late yesterday afternoon, a cyclist from Channel Islands, UK came to the roadhouse. She had started in Perth, cycled to Geraldton and hitchhiked to Broome and was now cycling back to Perth. She was in "express" mode to cover distance and ride to Perth quickly. Nice to compare notes and interesting to see the variety of styles of touring. Roadhouse opened at 6 am and I was there to get brekky before heading off. Cyclist from Channel Islands still drying her tent, but expected to set off after me. I didn't see her again after that. First 30 km was cattle country again. "Watch for wandering stock". Seems like it takes these cows a while to figure things out. Hence, when a road train rushes at them, they mostly pause and stare...enough time for the road train to pass. However, for a bicycle, the pause is followed by a "flee" instinct and they rush off into the bush. Low shrubs starting out, but route today had considerable sections with mostly low grasses and some shrubs. The types of shrubs changed some as well. This region, the Pilbara, is known for huge mineral extraction facilities and rugged terrain. After 50 km, was a turnoff to Mount Goldworthy. From here, a rail line and power line for the iron ore, followed the road for most the way. Some rough rock outcroppings. Mostly cross winds at first.
While I was paused for a rest at 80 km, a caravaner I met at Sandfire Roadhouse pulled up as well. At 103 km, a turnoff to Marble Bar which boasts, "Australia's hottest town", with a record of over 160 consecutive days over 100°F (38°C). Otherwise, mostly grasslands, shrubs and some fire burn areas. Cross winds seemed like they were coming more from the front. At 130 km, a small aboriginal town, then 10 km further a store and caravan
park. Yea! Got a cold drink and some food before setting off towards
town. Last 10 km went along Cargill Salt works. Very industrial
looking with rail lines, iron ore, storage tanks, etc. Went right downtown
to the tourist bureau and found a motel. A bit of a dive, but wonderful
location. Can go right out back to see shipping channel, iron ore
ships. Signed up for an iron ore tour tomorrow. |
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