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March 21st-31st, 2001March 21st; El Paso to Fort Hancock
Climbed a little more of the hill before skirting down and then through El Paso. For a 500,000 person city, remarkably easy to get through. Stopped briefly at park in center of town before heading out on Delta Drive. Delta Dr. was a somewhat gritty industrial road. Went past the refineries and otherwise through some poorer parts of town. Six miles later, turned right onto Alameda and headed south out of town. A little traffic by Socorro before things quieted down by San Elizario. Mailed back my maps of AZ and NM and then proceeded along the mission route southbound. A lot of Spanish on billboards and spoken by people in stores. Some places, saw less English than I noticed in Chennai, India in '99. Lots of adobe houses, particularly in older parts of the little cities. Not much as far as road shoulders, but traffic slowly died away and road became very quiet. South of Ternillo, met two cyclists each pulling a trailer with 70 lbs of gear. They had come from Fort Lauderdale five weeks before. We traded road information and then both headed off in search of lunch. Stopped for lunch in Fort Hancock and also decided to make an easy day by
stopping for the day. Music for today.
In the afternoon, relaxed and fixed my flat, caused by small wire. March 22nd; Fort Hancock to Van Horn
After 20 miles stopped at the Tiger Truck stop, even including several real tigers out back. One was pacing back and forth, another white tiger was sacked out sleeping. Stopped in for breakfast and back on the shoulder of I-10 eastbound. The route climbed about 1500ft up along the Sierra Blanca mountains. Took a survey of truck traffic and found 43% of the first 200 vehicles were trucks, the rest cars, buses, campers, etc. After 14 miles, another border patrol inspection station. They had stopped a bus bound for Miami and thus waived the rest of us through. I still had to get my bike in the single file lane amongst the trucks and slowly pedal through. Sierra Blanca was a quiet sleepy town. Two motels, a few cafes (see
above right) and not much else. A nice tailwind was blowing along from
here and the last 33 miles into Van Horn. Another day that wasn't too
tough. March 23rd; Van Horn to Alpine
Quiet road. The main riding surface was considerably smoother than the shoulder. Traffic was extremely light, so it was possible to ride in the travel lane and get over when heard a vehicle coming. Climbed around a few small hills and under the railroad tracks about ten miles out. Small historical sign pointing out Van Horn wells, site of natural springs. Here was a somewhat agricultural valley of Lobo, with a ranch or two and also some pecan trees. Lobo cafe/gas station looked abandoned and was for sale. Hills went away and land opened up as I got close to Valentine. Population 214. From the looks of it, at least four buildings in town were abandoned cafes and three were abandoned gas stations. Nothing open currently or place to get water. Wonder if all four were open at the same time, or just serially tried different buildings. From Valentine south, mostly open range land and quiet straight road. A few small hills coming into Marfa. Without diversions, had made good time and was in shortly after 1:00pm. Breakfast/lunch at Dairy Queen and then decided to head over the next mountains to Alpine. A small viewing area for Marfa optical phenomenon and then some quick hills
to climb up and over. Winds slowly shifted to become headwinds, so a bit
of a push coming into Alpine. A good day none the less. March 24th; Alpine to Sanderson
Wind was gusty, but mostly a side wind from the north, without much head wind component. Rode mostly head down slogging ahead for the first thirty-one miles to Marathon. Marathon has a cute downtown street with a somewhat upscale hotel. As I had breakfast of an avocado omelet, considered stopping and taking an easy day. A book store next to the restaurant beaconed. However, since it was only 10am and I wasn't convinced weather would be any better the next day, decided to push on towards Sanderson.
A few last bends in the road, before reaching Sanderson. Headwinds had made it a slow, tough day. On reaching Sanderson, saw another cyclist heading westbound. We traded road information before retiring for the day. A few facts about Sanderson from their tourist flyer:
85 miles today, 1650 miles cumulative. March 25th; Sanderson to Comstock
Slight descent into Dryden, 20 miles away. The land also opened up a little and no longer followed the canyons as much. Dryden had a single mercantile store. Warmed up inside and had a short talk with the proprietor. Cyclists came through occasionally, as this was only stop for a while. Also a woman on a horse/burro, though probably not the same one I had seen earlier.
At Langtry, signs led off to Judge Roy Bean Visitor center. A nice little stop with lore and information about this judge and his brand of justice, "West of the Pecos". A nice cactus garden made for a good excuse to dawdle and rest up. After Langtry decided to continue last 30 miles, crossing the Pecos river
(see above right) before climbing up to the town of Comstock. Another
small town. All three cafes in town were closed for Sunday evening so
simple dinner. March 26th; Comstock to Del Rio
Cool overcast and ~15mph headwinds as I went over some low hills near Comstock and then towards Amistad Reservoir, a popular boating and scuba location. As I cycled the thirty-plus miles to town, slowly traffic increased. Del Rio is a metropolis of 30,000+. They were hoping for 50,000+ after last census, but apparently fell short. Del Rio is also where I saw my first stop light since Van Horn (>300 miles earlier) and first bike store since El Paso. Purchased and installed a new tire since my rear tire had gone through most of the tread and had an interesting bobble. Otherwise, a rest day. Chance for laundry, reading and
relaxing. All better than fighting the headwinds for the rest of the
afternoon. March 27th; Del Rio to Camp Wood
After five miles, most of the traffic turned off to Laughlin Air Force Base and road became quieter. Still occasional trucks whizzing past and kicking up extra spray to the drizzle. Glasses fogged as I cycled through mostly flat terrain for about 30 miles to Brackettville. On the way, a Border Patrol truck was slowly driving along. He caught up with me at a roadside rest area. Briefly thought about a "buenos dias", but other than counting to ten, don't know much other Spanish. Border Patrol agent mentioned they were ~8000 people and were catching 100s of illegal immigrants each week sneaking across the border. Definitely, saw more of the Border Patrol than and other law enforcement. At Brackettville, I squished into the local store/cafe. Clerk just looked at me and smiled. I smiled back and we started to laugh. Who would be out cycling in this rain? Had a good breakfast and then headed out Texas 334 destination Camp Wood. For the next 30 miles, the road had no shoulders. Didn't matter much as less than 10 cars passed in either direction. One was a truck that passed, slowed and stopped. "Do you need a ride somewhere?...or are you doing this for fun?" I assured him I was cycling in the rain for fun. He shook his head and drove on. The route crossed several dry streams. Each was proceeded with a "Warning: Road floods when wet" type signs and then had a local flood gauge as shown above right. Fortunately, no water crossing the road yet.
Ready for an end of the cycling day when I slowly pedaled
into Camp Wood. March 28th; Camp Wood to Ingram
Gently climbing terrain for first eight miles and then a steep hill. Surprisingly, since it was hidden around a bend. Slowly climbed up to the ridgeline and then again a bit flatter through the hills. Hills were pretty with trees in many different shades. Still overcast, but fortunately dry. Rolling terrain across the top of the hills before a quick descent down to Leakey (pronounced Lea-key, not Leak-ey). Over breakfast, met someone who had graduated from same high school as myself, but two years later. Generally friendly folks. From Leakey, more hilly terrain for next sixteen miles to Vanderpool. Climbed three major hills, with lots of little ones in between. Some steep enough that I jumped off and wheeled the bike up and over. Fortunately, Adventure Cycling maps have some indication of terrain so I knew what to expect. Saw deer several times along the way.
After 54
miles, came to intersection of TX 39. Map indicated the route followed
South Fork of the Guadalupe River. However, surprisingly many quick short
hills. I was getting tired and walked a few. Fortunately, the route
eventually flattened out and came in through Hunt to Ingram. March 29th; Ingram to Blanco
At mile fifteen, turned off on small country lane along the Guadalupe river, Wharton Road. After three miles, it crossed the river on a low dam. Water around three inches deep flowed over the road. Went to take a picture...oops, batteries dead. Got off the bike and walked through ~20ft of river until the other side. Fortunately, other than soaking my shoes, front panniers stayed mostly dry. Three miles later, squished into Center Point store with sign above left for new batteries.
Climbed up and
over the last hills along Kendalia before crossing county line and coming into
the small town of Blanco. A fun small town to walk around with a nice
courthouse and also a bowling alley cafe. March 30th; Blanco to Lockhart
Mostly overcast again, with an occasional drop, but nothing more than a tease of rain. Leaving Blanco on 165, a small farm road with not much of a shoulder. Quite a few cars zooming past, presumably commuting off to Austin. Land dampened out some, though there were still a few valleys to cross with their sharp declines and hills on the other side. Made good time to Wimberley though. While cycling one can follow what area one is in by the major newspapers offered along the way. Have been following a police drug corruption sting out of San Antonio the past few days and was still able to get San Antonio papers. However, Houston becoming more prominent as well.
East of Kyle, could tell I was leaving
hill country. The land flattened out and allowed for crops as well as farm
animals. Saw first oil wells as well. Still lots of traffic, and
made a short day today and stopped in Lockhart. March 31st; Lockhart to La Grange
Busy traffic outside Bastrop where I merged with TX 71. Fortunately, also a wide shoulder. Not much later cut through the older part of Bastrop before turning off and through Bastrop State Park.
After Buescher park, the route followed 153 for 10 miles to Winchester. Picture above left shows that as the land gets flatter, the water towers are placed on stilts. Picture at right shows the Methodist Church in Winchester. Most churches here are Baptist churches though also see a mixture of Lutheran, Methodist and Catholic churches. Definitely in the bible belt here. Winchester store was closed, but fortunately found a nice small store/restaurant (Hajek's) at intersection of 153 and US 77. Good lunch and chance to get road information from the patrons. Route headed south last seven miles to La Grange along busy US 77. Shoulders again and first rumble strips for a while. No room at the inn. Oak Motel was full, due to Antique festival. We called to the other motel and made a reservation. As I cycled out to the motel, found out there were actually three other motels and I hadn't thought to ask which one. Went to all three and found my room at the third one. So far have
been enjoying this first month on the road. Definitely some interesting
contrasts as I head slowly eastwards across the US. |
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