|
|
December 11th-20th, 2001December 11th, 12th and 13th; Rest days in Canberra
Canberra is thus a planned city, laid out with wide tree-lined streets and large government buildings and memorials. Things are spread out giving me more of an impression of suburb than big city. Makes walking take a bit longer. Todays paper even had an article about kangaroos drowning in Lake Burley Griffen, a large man-made lake in middle of the city (filled in 1967). I doubt kangaroos would be adventuresome enough to make it to botanic gardens in middle of Sydney or Melbourne.
I walked down the long mall leading from the Australian War Memorial with small memorials along the way. From there back through main shopping malls in center of town. The tour bus went past some of the 80 embassies and high commissions in Canberra (a high commission is similar to embassy, but from a commonwealth country). Interesting to see how some countries had adopted a theme, e.g. pagodas for the Chinese embassy, a southern mansion for USA. Across from the old parliament house there was even an "aboriginal tent embassy" set up as a protest some years ago. Our bus drove to Mount Ainslie for a good look over the city.
I dropped off my bicycle at Lonsdale Cyclery for checkup and replacement of worn parts. Also checked up on internet cafes and shops in town and bought India supplies (mosquito net, water tablets).
The Royal Australian Mint was opened in 1966, same year Australia shifted over to decimal currency (previously 12 cents to a shilling and 20 shillings to a pound). Here they stamp out Australia's circulating coins as well as commemorative coins and medals. Interesting to see similarities in process with plastic molding. Different quality standards and processes were used for circulating coins as commemorative coins. Circulating coins are stamped at up to 650/minute. The special coins have filtered air. Seems like commemorative coins and medals are an important side business. I paid $2 here to stamp out a $1 coin (valid with special mint mark).
More Canberra walking on the 13th as the city is quite spread out. In the evening or tomorrow, hoping to meet up with Brendan and Wendy to join them on last days of their ride back to Bowral completing their one lap of Australia. Overall impressions are of a very recent capital, fairly open, lots of parks,
spread out making for long walks and still more suburban than city. The openness
of buildings strikes me as bit of a cross between a US state capital and
Washington DC, though the preponderance of memorials, museums, embassies, etc is
more regal and national. The British heritage also comes out here more
than elsewhere I've been. December 14th; Canberra to Goulburn
Left early again and came up a gentle grade as I left Canberra. Not much traffic early, nor do I suspect much later. At 17 km near top of the hill was border to NSW...last border crossing for Australia. From here a gentle descent and then climb again. Several rest areas named for Victoria Cross recipients here.
From Collector back on the main highway. Up ahead I saw two cyclists. Brendan and Wendy had passed while I was in town. We rode from this point together. The kms went fairly quickly and were fairly flat. We stopped briefly at McDonalds at the Big Marino and then found a place in Goulburn. Goulburn has population of 24,000 and describes itself as Australia's oldest
inland town. There are many nice old buildings here including a historic
courthouse. December 15th; Goulburn to Wingello
Just past Marulan was turnoff on back road to Wingello. Quieter and
pleasant riding with some gentle hills. We came into Wingello and were
there before noon. Brendan's brother Adrian had set up a tarp and big
welcome sign for Brendan and Wendy. In afternoon I joined their families
as they came together in celebration, it was a fun afternoon overall. December 16th; Wingello to Moss Vale
We left Wingello and cycled with fog and overcast skies. A few slight hills through Penrose. As we approached Bundadoon, a cyclist with motor assist came the other way... rest of cycling club was waiting at Bundadoon. From there, we slowly picked up cyclists from the club that Brendan and Wendy had ridden with.
All that remained was a victory lap. Berrima is a historic town, 8 kms
away where the cycling club regularly meets after a ride. Brendan and
Wendy's bicycles were decorated like peacocks with balloons as they led a
procession over the hill to Berrima. Nice historic town here with an old
jail and nice shops. We had lunch and visited with folks at Berrima before
riding at end of day back to Moss Vale. Victory lap and B&W's ride
really complete on arrival back at Moss Vale. December 17th; Moss Vale to Bulli Pass
Nice to join "locals" in riding, since they know the quieter back roads. Riding from Moss Vale, our first challenge was a steep hill at 10 km. It had a nice descent and after that it was mostly downhill. We climbed into clouds, so missed some of the spectacular views, but still a nice ride. This area had a few orchards and otherwise nice pastures and livestock.
We arrived at Brendan's parents mid-morning, 41 km so far. Relaxed, had lunch and looked around the farm. Having spent parts of three days with Brendan's and Wendy's families, I'm grateful to hospitality shown (thanks!). Also interesting as their trip finished up, it has me reflect on pending completion of my Australia segment... excited to be almost done, though also I suspect I'll miss touring Australia...so far, it has been a wonderful experience. After lunch, we parted ways and I rode towards Appin. In Appin was Bain Masonry, the Bain's business. I had met John and Berryl and Dot and Dave on September 22nd when we were both camped by the shelter in the Nullarbor. They'd invited me to stay, either in Wollongong area or at the factory, and I took them up on the offer... The road from Bargo went back to the busy Hume Highway for 13 km before climbing on a smaller road via Winton at 61 km. From Winton, along a back road and to Appin with a nice descent/climb to Broughton Pass along the way. This was a steep chasm with old canal as part of the Sydney water system. John had been hoping I'd be their earlier. Rather than stay at the factory, could I join them at home? Sure, though I wanted to make certain I cycled the entire distance around Australia. We settled on me riding 17 km uphill to Bulli Pass and getting a ride in John's ute from there. The next morning, John would drop me off at Bulli Pass again... some good climbing, but I got up in an hour for 88 km for the day. John showed me some of the nice views from the escarpment before we drove down the hill. Had another pleasant evening with John and Berryl and Dot and Dave...and good
meal as well! Tomorrow will be Sydney! December 18th; Bulli Pass to Sydney
Had brekky with John and Berryl before we loaded my bike back in the ute. We drove back up the escarpment to same place from last night and repacked the bike. For the first 20 km there was both a motorway and the old highway. As a result, the road was surprisingly quiet. After that point, two roads joined, but there was good shoulder as well as caution bicycles type signs. A few slight rises, but generally downhill as I started at 400m and ended at 0m. A few shops at Heathcote and much busier as I came to Sutherland. The shoulder went away, but fortunately enough lights to slow down the traffic. I was enthusiastically riding and not stopping much this morning. At 50 km came across an old bridge to cross Botany Bay, the original place the first fleet landed. Road split here and I followed city center signs. A few kms later, in Rockdale, the main airport traffic split off to a motorway and Princes Highway as an urban street. Passed close to the airport at 60 km and tall buildings soon thereafter. Last few kms were busy city streets, until at 68 km I came down the last hill and to the Sydney Opera House.
December 19th and 20th; Rest days in Sydney
I had an appointment at Edgecliff Medical Center for travel immunizations for India. Got my malaria pills and topped up on polio booster and typhoid shot. It all took longer than I was hoping, but better safe than sorry. From Edgecliff, train back to the city and walked through skyscrapers and past monuments and historic buildings. Back to the harbor and wharf buildings with the ferry terminal.
On the 20th, first more errands and then a walk along the monorail (like Disneyland in Sydney!) Internet cafe has "happy hour" at opening time. Used this time to write some grad school recommendations and otherwise surf the net.
From Paddington market, the route went past the Powerhouse Museum, a former power station, now dedicated to arts and sciences. It didn't look that interesting, so I continued past the convention center and to the Maritime Museum.
Before I knew it, the afternoon was gone around Darling Harbor. Walked
through streets busy with Christmas shoppers and back to my hotel. In the
evening I rode to Clarence Street Bicycle shop to make certain my pedals were
loose enough to get off at the airport. December 21st; Farewell AustraliaFarewell Australia, at least for now... A day to cycle to the airport and fly to New Zealand, so let me write a few overall impressions: I've found bicycle touring to be a wonderful way to see Australia. While I've only seen a small slice, I've gone from Australia being a "blank map" to filling in many details, e.g. where to find sugar cane, hills, wheat, sheep, crocodiles, emus, coal, copper, lead, zinc, iron, boab trees, coral reefs, diamonds and so much more. Each day another ~100 km piece of the montage. I found the roads to be better than the US and drivers also slightly better on average. This is particularly true in the tropics. During my several months across the north, I had no rain and mostly tailwinds. What more can a cyclist want! Hopefully this web site can assist and help inspire others to go see more of Australia, even if by car or coach... On arrival, I noticed obvious differences, e.g. the moon is tipped the other way, revolving doors go the other way, weather systems swirl differently around highs and lows, riding on the left, little flip switches on outlets, international road signs, colored money, mostly British spellings, etc. At least as interesting is how familiar and similar it feels to parts of the US I've been, particularly the small towns in both countries. Bill Bryson has compared small town areas with 1950s USA towns complete with old radio songs. It felt more recent to me (1980s or 1970s) but I can see some resemblance. My favorite riding has been through outback areas. Long distances between towns and roadhouses, but beautiful scenery, wildlife and a sense of calm. It is here that I most noticed a unique culture of caravaners, Britz vans, backpackers, road train truckies, roadhouses, etc. Tourist regions like the Red Center and Top End blend into the outback with their scenery, tour buses and mixtures of tourists. It is a bit ironic that so many Australians live in urban areas and around the big cities (and from what I read, many don't get to the outback). People have been wonderful, helpful and friendly. It has definitely added to the experience to visit with locals and learn more. At risk of missing many, I'd put extra special salute here to: Rob and Becky, Rod and Gwen, Vicky and Darryl, Jill and Charles, Brendan and Wendy. Thanks! Thanks also to others including cyclists I've taken photos of and share road information with. Unlike a country like Canada, Australia very much feels like one country with not so many differences between the states. Sure there might be squabbles about what rugby is the "real" one or sport rivalries or regions like Tassie/WA feeling left out... However, one is struck with how similar and how peoples outlook is towards one Australia across all the states, e.g. preferring uniform laws and treatment. If there is a split in Australia, it is more between big cities and outback "bush", than between the states. If I had to pick favorites, my favorite capital city would be Darwin with Adelaide a close second and Canberra up as well. However, they all have their unique and interesting bits. Picking a favorite region to ride would be the Kimberley, though this is hard to pick because much of enjoyment has come from seeing variations and combinations. After a long ride, I typically end with an even longer list of places I missed but would really like to come back and see... the Townsville-Cairns-Normanton circuit or up the Murray/Darling rivers are two examples. It may be a while, but I expect to be back to more more of Australia... Thanks to my parents for their support and thanks to my father for all the work he put into the web site. Someone had to be tracking that red line around the map... Now on to New Zealand. Updates will be slower in coming since they go via internet cafes and ground mail. |
Unless otherwise specified, this page © Copyright 2001-2002, Mike Vermeulen |